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I'm starting on my plan to improve the insulation in my 1980 extension - it's 2 storey uninsulated cavity wall, 5m x 4m rooms. Also has suspended floor, so I'm going to insulate under the floor and then add insulated plasterboard to the external walls.
Having taken the laminate floor up this afternoon, I've already got a couple of questions.

1. The heating pipes run around the wall behind the skirting boards, should the insulated boards be fixed over the heating pipes right down to the floor, or leave a gap for the warmth from the pipes to come into the room?

2. The floor is 1980 chipboard, nailed down, presumably tongue & groove, 600mm wide. I know for traditional floorboards the recommended removal method is to saw through one of the t&g joints with a circular saw & then prise it up & go from there - I assume it is the same in the case of chipboard?

Thanks in advance

I would remove pipes and create a service cavity in front of the insulation with timber battens, allows cables pipes to be run in the warm side of the house.

Flooring of that era would be easier to punch the nails through the flooring and lift the sheets if possible, probably got pva glue on the tongue and groove.

AGT wrote: ↑Sun Feb 02, 2025 9:49 pm I would remove pipes and create a service cavity in front of the insulation with timber battens, allows cables pipes to be run in the warm side of the house.

Flooring of that era would be easier to punch the nails through the flooring and lift the sheets if possible, probably got pva glue on the tongue and groove.

Thanks!
I'll try that with punching the nails through.

I'm not going to start removing all the central heating g pipes, but I'll see if I can thread some thin sheet Insulation behind them

I'm getting there with the insulation, but it's a big job!
Knocking the nails through didn't work, nor did drilling a hole saw around the nails & lifting the boards. After 40+ years and with rusty nails, I decided to bite the bullet & just fit new chipboard flooring.
The underfloor was in pretty good condition, apart from 3 or 4 slight areas of rot in the support timbers, due to the damp proof course being bridged where it contacted the outside wall. They were repaired fairly easily.

I was expecting a suspended floor to be literally suspended with joists notched into the walls, but this is effectively floating, completely supported by 4 mini walls with under-joists, and the floor joists were not touching the outside walls!

I used a breathable roof membrane to create a hammock style system over the joists to support the insulation.
Even with the insulation in and the floor back down we could feel it was warmer, less drafts blowing around

The wall insulation is also done now, which was a bit of a learning process!
Next task is to add the mesh tape across the joints & plaster the joints, then we'll be getting towards having the lounge back

A lot of work but it will be well worth it.

Good job! It’ll make a huge difference!

Get the orange “extra sticky” scrim tape. Much easier to use!

Excellent, huge difference maker.

Excellent job, remember those days only too fondly (not).

Deffo will not regret the short term pain for the longer term gains.

Stinsy wrote: ↑Sat Mar 01, 2025 7:09 am Good job! It’ll make a huge difference!

Get the orange “extra sticky” scrim tape. Much easier to use!

Thanks - by chance I did buy the orange tape

Looking good, you will love the difference it makes to the room temp/comfort!